Grand Canyon Rim to River to Rim Hike

 The allure of the Grand Canyon is indescribable; a visual masterpiece that is always changing in the light. Some rock layers are millions of years old, in myriads of fantastical shapes. But hiking to the bottom is a serious undertaking in the rugged harsh climate. The price of admission to the wonderland is grueling physical stamina to climb in and out of it. Lack of preparation or training can be deadly. At the same time the vast expanse is magical. Going below the rims is an adventure, and the first step on South Kaibab trail to descend is both exhilarating and terrifying at the same time.

We started down South Kaibab in the pre-dawn gloom at 4:30. I avoided looking at the dimly lit depths and shear drops offs that promised certain death if I fell, and kept my eyes down on the steep slope of the ground. The hazy sun was still under the horizon, glowing behind the rim.

So many steps.

Going down was strenuous with the endless steps and my knees ached already. The rock walls were spectacular in the growing orange glow. A bunch of hikers gathered to see the sunrise at Oh Ah Point. We took pictures. I reluctantly posed by the sign because I hate pictures of myself and don’t smile if I can help it. Moving on, my group stuck around with me for the most point, though it was hard for me to keep up.

We really had a lucky break with the weather. It was fifties at the start, with a nice cool breeze, and high clouds that kept the sun intensity lower. It could have been much worse. My biggest fear on this hike was getting overheated, especially in June. The bottom is known to be an inferno in the summer. Anxiety made me fill up on water almost every stop, though it wasn’t always necessary.

At Tip Off Point, the formations were still orange in the low light with dramatic deep blue shadows, making them resemble temples. The first glimpse of the silver green river thousands of feet below was always amazing.

We crossed the river and went on to Phantom Ranch. I got ice, a postcard to sent to my daughter and of course lemonade. My pack was heavy with snacks, so I didn’t buy food. I filled up with the ice and water and kept out a wary eye for the evil, obnoxious squirrels who never miss a chance to grab a snack from unsuspecting tourists. Sometimes they followed me along the trail. What a menace.

We went back to Bright Angel Trail and followed the river in a sandy path for what seemed a long way until we started ascending. It was warmer and I was drinking more water, but still felt dehydrated. My system of using an insulated small bottle with a three liter bladder to refill it  wasn’t efficient because I kept having to stop and pour water into the bottle. The bladder tube didn’t work at all. Next year, I will just get another three liter bladder.

My group got ahead of me, so I hiked alone. The trail was a lovely riparian paradise of creeks, waterfalls and plants hanging out of the rocks. The Canyon was greener than last year from all the rain and snow it got this winter. Flowers were blooming and birds called. One sounded like it was whistling at me. The peace of flowing water is my happy place as long as I can cross them or walk on the side of them.

But when the trail turned into a creek, requiring stepping on rocks to keep my feet dry, it elicited anxiety. This was one of those “where the hell am I, am I lost” moments. Am I doomed to wander around, getting nowhere? The watery pathway finally turned into something resembling a trail again. 

The rock formations were interesting, especially in my tired, mushy mental state. One undulating ridge had dark pancake batter layers. Some looked like faces. Whatever kind of rock it was, it was millions of years old.

I headed for a shady spot to pour some more water into my bottle and tripped. I had avoided this calamity up until now. My knee was bloody and my ankle bone had banged hard into a rock. Hopefully, it wasn’t broken. I could still walk, but it was still a long way up. It could get worse and my feet hurt enough as it was. I cleaned up the wound, but couldn’t find a band-aid to put on the knee, so it just dripped blood.

After enough time on these trails, encountering mules are inevitable. They leave their droppings and puddles of pee for hikers to step around, like a fecal obstacle course.  A train of mules appeared up the hill with tourists riding them. A space off the trail was a good place to stand and they went by me. The leader called out “that rock up there is Elvis, the king. You never know. Stranger things have happened here.” It did look a little like Elvis, if you used your imagination.

Finally I reached Havasupi Gardens. My group had actually waited for me, which was appreciated. They always got ahead of me, but it still helped to see them. Havasupi Gardens didn’t seem like much, but maybe there was more to it near the campgrounds. At this point, I just wanted to get back up to the rim. Four and a half miles to go, but it was the hardest portion.

Farther on, I caught up to them again and we soaked our shirts, hats and neck things in the creek, It was refreshing.

Alone again, the waterways were gone, with only the endless switchbacks. Now I realized why people hated this part of the trail. It was hell. It wasn’t North Kaibab hell, where my legs felt like any moment they would collapse and I stopped every five minutes, but my focus was waning. It was difficult to keep hydrated. A misstep and I fell on the ground. It was a soft fall with no injuries, but my body was telling me enough.

The less serious hikers with flip-flops, purses and shopping bags appeared. A man asked me “how far to the river?” My answer made him turn around. A stone arch seemed to mark the end, but no, more trail. “Oh, come on!”

Finally the end after ten and a half hours, in plenty of time for dinner. I sat down near the Bright Angel sign to rest. Getting out of that deep hole seemed a win. No heat exhaustion, no major injuries and I got out on my own power and had survived the ancient, unforgiving landscape.

Ironically, the most painful part was climbing the manmade stairs to my room, which caused me to scream from the pain of severe leg cramps. This was my body’s revenge for the abuse all day. Pain isn’t fun, but overcoming it is. Being exhausted, stressed and feeling like crap isn’t something that I seek out, but it’s part of the adventure. It’s worth it in order to see new things, be in a different environment and get out of the bubble of ordinary life.

Even if the Elvis rocks weren’t “loving me tender.”

Grand Canyon Rim to Rim

 

Going down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon had long been a goal of mine. A mixture of curiosity, the exceptional scenery and a lack of common sense enticed me to trod the rugged depths.  It’s one of those trips that sounds great in theory, but the reality involves some serious craziness.  The hike is a strenuous long way down and up in a day in an unforgiving climate. It would be badass to do at my age, though and it’s fun to test myself physically, otherwise known as suffering. 

This goal had always been thwarted by circumstances. My ex went down with his brothers, but I had to watch our young child. The car really stunk when they got out after sweating and camping for days. Another trip, the person backed out. A prospective group never had room. A tour was expensive and camping was involved, which is a nonstarter. The logistics of going by myself was difficult and hiking alone wasn’t appealing. Then came cancer and the pandemic. My strength to hike to the river, let alone rim to rim, was doubtful due to health issues. The goal seemed out of reach. After all this disappointment, the time was finally right.

Looking down into the abyss on the south rim the evening before, the coming venture was daunting. The ancient rock faces and formations in the fading light were striking, but harsh. The vast terrain looked merciless. I had been on both rims before, and it was pretty to look at and not threatening. It’s one thing to enjoy the scenery on the surface; another to subject myself to the climate, ruggedness and perils of the interior. Be unprepared for heat, dehydration or exhaustion and the consequences were dire. I was scared, but still compelled to hike it.

Walking down should have been the easier part, but the thousands of steps put a strain on my knees.  Poles alleviated the effort, but my legs got really tired anyway. My lower right leg developed a persistent stabbing pain. Traversing by myself was isolating in the empty vastness of the landscape. By mile five, even finishing seemed doubtful. Step wrong and my shaky legs collapsed. I fell once and skinned my knee, which dripped blood. This prompted passers-by to ask if I was okay. Past experience told me to block out how far it was and to just keep going, even when it seemed impossible. Mental focus trumps physical pain. But despair lurked on the edges of my thoughts. Finally the trail smoothed out on the plateau.

A line of horses passed me twice, pissing and pooping on the trail, so I stepped carefully. These riders don’t know what they are missing. I went through the tunnel, got to Indian Gardens and reloaded on water and wet myself down at the water stop. People say to soak yourself in the stream but lack of time and a norovirus had been going around made it seem risky.  Being very tired by this point, I walked in a zombie state to Phantom Ranch and got the overpriced lemonade and sat down with a sigh of relief to write a postcard to send to my daughter. The $5 lemonade perked up me up again. I bought ice and put it in my water containers. Ice was my savior, since warm water is not thirst quenching.

The "Box"

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The riparian areas in the “box” of rock walls by Bright Angel Creek were lovely and soul soothing. Birds sang in the bushes and flowers dotted the banks. Brooks are my happy place; a zen place of peace.  An interesting snake slithered by and two deer appeared in the brush. The shade provided relief against the heat of the day. Sometimes a breeze kicked up and dried my sweat. 

Many people must have passed through here in various states of physical exhaustion. The rocks are 500 million years old, so they had seen a lot of souls. The rims are forests, the bottom is desert and two climate zones down and the reverse going back up. Basically 4000 feet down and 5000 up from South Kaibab to North Kaibab, so it was a wide temperature and altitude range to adapt to. 

I stopped to try to find food in my pack and a passerby rudely commented that I had thirteen miles to get to the north rim before sunset. Thanks a lot buddy, but I was acutely aware of the time limitations. The park rangers don’t encourage people to attempt rim to rim in one day because they don’t  want to have to rescue them. I was finding out why it was so tough for us mere mortals. The effort was taking everything that I had to keep going.

Some other members of my group caught up to me and I walked with them for a while. This area rose upward from the creek and was hot, desolate and dry. Getting cooked and very thirsty, I stopped at Cottonwood for more water. The group went on. It was difficult to suck water out of my camelback container, so I dumped its water into my water bottles and guzzled it. 

The people I had been walking with were resting at Manzanita. I was exhausted at this point, with the worst yet to come. The next stop had no water, so filled my bottles. Eating gels, jerky, bars, and salt tablets didn’t seem to provide much energy. Part of the problem was that my pack was disorganized and my nuts and trail mix were buried in its depths. My electrolyte mix had spilled. Digging through the pack was too much effort and I wasn’t that hungry. I nibbled on jerky, something that I wouldn’t touch otherwise. The misery of the ironman run came to mind. This seemed about as hard, but with no aid stations or cheering crowds.

Stairs were again a real obstacle now and North Kaibab had plenty of them. The ascending trail went down again and I thought really? The bridge that I had hiked down to from the North Rim with my ex in another life came into view. I even have a old picture of it in the time before digital cameras. Ascending North Kaibab long ago was a lot easier without the present previous twenty miles and a few decades of living. My legs were rubbery and threatened to collapse at any moment. The poles helped me to keep climbing, but didn’t always help my teetering balance. The stairs were dodged any chance I could. 

Another random rim to rim group caught up to me and decided to follow me. Maybe they were just being nice, but they weren’t in a hurry. Finally, a group going at my pace. One of the guys was really kind, offering to let me rest anytime. He gave me a caffeinated gel which helped some. The support of random strangers was nice. I would have probably married him at this point if he didn’t already have a spouse.  

My shaky, tired legs wanted to quit NOW. Supposedly, the total distance was about twenty miles, but it was longer and never seemed to end. A mile took about 40 minutes now. The altitude was 8,000 feet, which didn’t help. The trees on the north rim obscured the path, so gauging the distance left was difficult. Someone thought that it was twenty-two miles, which was a discouraging thought. After stopping and resting several times, I finally decided to forge ahead the last couple of miles after someone commented how hard it was to stop and go. My last vestiges of strength were being sucked away. Finally we heard cheering through the trees and knew the ordeal had come to an end. I had done it.

Total moving time was 11:25. Elapsed time was 13:17 for the 24 miles, probably due to water stops, Phantom Ranch stop, taking pictures and watching wildlife. It was a remarkable and excruciating experience.

It took a few days for the experience to sink in and the memory of the physical pain to fade enough to realize the impact of the experience. The exhausting ordeal didn’t seem worth it at first, but then joy seeped in. The ancient walls had dared me to defy age, physical limitations, dehydration, health problems, mental demons and common sense. The general suckdom of life was forgotten and replaced with lovely riparian scenery replaying in my mind. 

After struggling with fatigue, mental stress, joint aches, and residual weakness from cancer treatment for two years, I had serious doubts about my physical abilities. It took a long time to even get an opportunity to try and finishing a very difficult goal was gratifying. But the best thing was descending into the Canyon depths and coming out feeling invincible. And badass.